Glass Fusing
How it works
Glass fusing is the process of cutting and layering glass to form a design and then having it melted down to one piece. Glass prices are based on the size base the customer picks. Each base has its own set price, and this price includes all the glass needed for the project. (We do have specialty glass that does cost extra, and these are individually priced according to each piece.) The customer can choose to have their piece slumped. To slump something means to give it a shape (vase, bowl, dish, etc.) This is an extra $10 fee because it requires a separate firing.
Jewelry or magnets can be made by placing glass pieces on tiles. Each tile size has its own price, and the customer can put as many pieces on the tile as they can fit. The pieces must have enough space in between them though, or they will all melt together. For a base for jewelry or magnets, you can use scrap glass (any color).
Glass pieces usually take about a 8-10 days to get back, and up to two weeks if their project is being slumped. (Holidays may be longer)
Set-up
Each customer making a project will need to be set up with a glass fusing "placemat," cutter, pliers, nipper, glass piece, and Elmer's glue. **If the customer is going to slump their piece, make sure they have chosen the correct size base!** We also have gloves and safety glasses available for the customer to use. Always remind the customer that they are working with glass, and ask them to please be careful. You can cut yourself, so be aware of what you are doing. (Offer them gloves or band-aids- they will usually choose gloves. Also offer them safety glasses to prevent eye injuries).
Using a piece of scrap glass, show the customer how each tool works:
The glass cutter will be used for larger pieces of glass, and it works best when starting away from your body and score by pulling into your body. Make sure to apply enough pressure, so the glass is actually cut. You should hear a scratching sound as you are cutting if enough pressure is provided. (Sounds like sizzling bacon!)
The pliers are used to break the glass after it has been cut. Line up the line on the upward side of the pliers with your line you scored on the glass. Squeeze the pliers, and you should have a clean break. If the break is not clean, either not enough pressure was applied with the cutter or the size piece of glass you are trying to cut is too small or thin.
Nippers are great for rods, noodles, and strips. They break off small pieces of glass, and can also be used to help shape larger glass pieces.
For glue, we use clear Elmer's glue. Set the customer up with a bottle of glue, a small paper/plastic cup, and a couple of toothpicks.
Once the customer understands how the tools work, they are ready to choose glass. We have bins that hold scrap glass (glass that has already been cut on), and we ask the customer to look here first for the glass they will need. If they don't find what they are looking for, then they may use the uncut/unused glass. Show them where the strips, rods, noodles, stringers, and frit are. Explain (and maybe show an example) of how you could use each. If a customer wants to use some of the specialty glass that is iridescent, make sure they know they will need to put a piece of clear glass on top of it. Otherwise, the iridescent pieces will come out rough after fired. For younger crafters, we do have "kid-friendly" glass. This glass has already been fired, and has no sharp edges. It's used and glued just like other glass.
Creating the project
Some customers like to plan out their project first, then go back and glue. Some like to glue as they go. Either is fine. The glue is only to hold the glass pieces together for us to carry the piece from their table to the back, so we do not want to apply too much glue! To apply glue, pour the glue into the small cup, and using a toothpick, dip it into the glue and then put it onto your glass piece. Stick onto your base.
You can build up to four layers high (your base counting as one layer). You can overlap and layer your glass pieces, but only up to four layers. Frit is done very LAST. It requires special glue (klyr-fire glass glue). Don't give the customer this glue until they are ready for it. It is not cheap, and we don't want to waste it. Pour a very small amount of this glue for the customer yourself. Give them the glue along with a q-tip. They will apply the glue to their base using the q-tip wherever they want their frit. Then, they can put their frit on. This is a slow drying glue, so let the customer know that this glue will probably still be wet when they leave the store.
After the customer has finished
The customer should leave their glass piece on the table, so we can transport it to the back ourselves. A ticket will need to be written up for the glass piece. If a customer did glass and pottery, two separate tickets need to be written (one for pottery and one for glass - with a note on each saying they had both). Glass tickets are to be filed in the "glass" folder. Make sure a detailed description is given of each piece as well as which specific slump the customer wants if they want one, as well as any magnets, bails, or other accessories needed. We have a specific channel on our SLACK app just for glass, so make sure to snap a photo of their piece with their name to make sure we get the correct piece back to them.
Glass pieces should be put on the "to-be-fired" glass shelf and should be kept in order as best possible. Be very careful when moving glass pieces. Often, not all pieces are glued down, so be extra careful. Please include a note with each glass piece as to which slump it will need. If a piece needs glass hangers, or a wire, include that information as well. This will have to be done BEFORE firing.
You will need to clean up the customer's work space, making sure it is clear of all glass. Larger pieces of glass can be put back into the scrap bins. You will need to brush off the placemats AND the tables into the trash glass bucket, making sure they are free from glass. Tools, placemats, and glue can then be returned to their storage areas. Never use your hands, use the hand brush!
Ringing up Glass
It is important to ring up all items (bases, slump fees, nightlights, etc.) Double check the base size, shape, and color. Glass hangers, wire, bails, and magnets are also extra, so don't forget those!
Ready to fire
Kiln paper will need to be cut for each glass piece. Cut each piece with about a half inch of extra space of each side. Kiln paper will also have to be put on tiles if firing with tiles. If any pieces need glass hangers or wire, make sure to do this now, before loading. Glass is fired on the heavy shelves.
Put the kiln paper on the shelves, then center the glass pieces on top. Make sure they are not hanging over the edge or on top of a large dent/crater on the kiln shelf. If there is a crater, pick a different shelf.
Pieces that are completely covered, mostly covered, and have a lot of layers can be full fused. This means that the glass will completely melt and will be flat. Pieces that have blank space or are more sparsely covered will be contour fused. The MAJORITY of pieces will be contour fused! This melts the glass to where they are not completely melted, but somewhat raised, so you can feel the design. Some pieces can be tack fused. If you want the glass pieces melted enough to stick together and smooth out the edges, this is the firing you would use.
Only load pieces using the same type of fusing together in the kiln. (Don't put a piece needing a full fuse in with a piece needing a tack fuse.) Program the kiln according to the glass firing you need. Full fuse - user 1, contour fuse - user 2, tack fuse - user 4. Make sure the fan is turned OFF. Start the kiln, and make sure all plugs are in. Always consult the red notebook when setting the kiln for glass.
Slumping
Slumping is the second glass firing to melt the glass to a specific shape. Molds are bisque (like pottery) with holes drilled in to let the air escape. Make sure molds are prepped and ready. You will need to “kiln wash” the molds every 5-6 months. If the mold is still giving off powder when you touch it, then you can fire with it.
You can also “drape” a vase by firing it over a stainless steel cup. Drape slumps must be prepared by spraying 3 good coats of mold release. Once the molds have been sprayed, do NOT touch them with your bare fingers/ hands. This can take off the mold release, and cause the glass to stick to the mold. (Always do this stinky chore outside- do not spray inside.
Glass pieces must have already been fired once before they are slump fired. Always double check tickets for the slump shape needed for each glass piece! Once slumps are ready, put them in the kiln and center the glass pieces on top of each mold. This is very important! Make sure the glass is as centered as possible, otherwise it will come out lopsided. Program the kiln for a slump fire (user 3). Make sure the fan is turned OFF. Start the kiln, and make sure all plugs are in.